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The new and new designers known for London Fashion Week SS22 | Her | Style

The new and new designers known for London Fashion Week SS22 |  Her |  Style

After several seasons of (let’s be honest) a bit boring online shows and digital presentations, London Fashion Week returns today (September 16) with a mix of physical and virtual events that will finally allow fashion professionals to get up close and personal with the latest new season collections.

And while the schedule includes a lot of household names, including Molly Goddard, Erdem, Vivienne Westwood and Simone Rocha, London Fashion Week has over the years built a reputation as an incubator for the brightest, most exciting new fashion talents. This is due in part to the quality of British fashion education institutions, such as Central Saint Martins, but also thanks to funding programs such as Newgen, the BFC Vogue Fashion Designer Fund and Fashion East, all of which aim to support new designers with the insurmountable expense of a planned landing show.

This season promises to be no different, with a host of new and emerging designers ready to showcase their innovative ideas, enveloping silhouettes and fresh approach to textiles. Here’s our guide to the names that should fall on FROW this season.

Saul Nash

Like many of those you find on this list, Saul Nash attended Central Saint Martins but unusually did not study fashion. Instead, Nash found his talent for fashion via the somewhat circular route of studying performance design, initially training to be a dancer before enrolling in a master’s course in menswear at the Royal College of Art. Therefore, Nash’s collections are embedded in a sense of fluidity and movement using casual silhouettes and technical fabrics to create luxury sportswear inspired by his childhood in north-east London.

More literally, his presentations, which this season will be shown as part of Newgen, include Nash’s own choreography and will be performed by dancers from his close-knit community. A happy party for movement, music and freedom of speech, come for the clothes and stay for the uplifting experience.

Visit saulnash.co.uk

Chet Lo

A newcomer to London Fashion Week making his debut as part of Fashion East, 24-year-old Asian-American designer Chet Lo studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins before cutting teeth at Maison Margiela and Proenza Schouler. Despite her graduation amid the pandemic shutdown, Lo’s signature nailed, neon-colored fabrics were an instant hit, with stars including Kylie Jenner, Michaela Cole, Doja Cat and SZA soon calling in search of tailor-made pieces. Lo also promises a ‘very sexy’ SS22 collection – see this room.

Visit chetlo.com

Alleyne Champion

Have you seen the picture of Rihanna dressed up as a splinter that has been making rounds on social media recently? It’s Jawara Alleyne (and a bold one Confused fashion team) we have to thank for just that piece of viral phenomena. In addition to creating high-fashion Halloween costumes for A-listers, Alleyne’s collections refer to his youth in Jamaica and the Cayman Islands, exploring notions of masculinity and how clothing is used to define itself. Decoration, layering and a high-low approach to fabrics are all key to his creations, none of which would look out of place in the wardrobes of fashion-conscious stars like Lil Nas X or Billy Porter. After taking a master’s in fashion at Central Saint Martins in 2020, SS22 will represent Alleyne’s second outing at London Fashion Week as part of Fashion East, while also co-founding Nii Agency, which specializes in various models.

Visit jawaraalleyne.com

Nancy Dojaka

Dojaka is coming to fashion week fresh from winning the highly coveted LVMH award; knocked out names including Bianca Saunders and Christopher John Rogers for taking € 300,000 grants and years of mentorship. This, combined with star-studded fans including Bella Hadid, Sophie Turner, Adwoa Aboah and Emily Ratajkowski, has made Dojaka’s show one of the hottest tickets for SS22. So what exactly has made the Albanian designer’s look so coveted? Clean, minimal and sporty, an undeniable 90s vibe with their spaghetti straps and form-fitting cuts, these are dresses made for supermodels and perfect for post-pandemic party. Drawing inspiration from Tom Ford-era Gucci and 90s designer Sophia Kokosalaki (Dojaka is an avid collector of fashion magazines of the time), Tailoring expects to play a bigger role in her SS22 collection — and that she will become a serious red carpet player comes award season.

Nensi Dojaka is in stock ssense.com

Maximilian

Now in its third season with Fashion East, Maximilian Davis’ brand sprang out of the venerable London fashion tradition: clubbing. It was by collecting looks after the Dalston nightclub PDA from fabric ornaments that he found both his love of design and what would become his house signature – outrageously poor looks that go directly into modern trends of cutaways, asymmetry and minimalist flamboyance .

His formal education came with permission from the London College of Fashion and a brief stint at Grace Wales Bonner, so there is a serious tailor-made know-how underlying his pieces, many of which are inspired by his grandmother’s upbringing in Trinidad and interrogate racial connotations of certain types of clothing. After pulling the first collection for his named brand together on a shoestring, Davis now counts A $ AP Rocky, Michaela Cole and Rihanna as fans. A true star along the way.

Maximilian is in stock net-a-porter.com

Yuhan Wang

London-based Chinese designer Yuhan Wang founded his named brand in 2018 and will, after several seasons under the mentorship of Fashion East, prove himself as part of the British Fashion Council’s Newgen scheme for SS22. Yet another Central Saint Martin candidate, Wang’s USP lies in hyper-feminine, printed pieces that speak to a desire for elegance, ingenuity and sophistication.

After living and studying in New York, London and Beijing, the mixture of Eastern traditions and Western culture is a common thread between her collections, where silhouettes from the reign and Chinese jacquards and embellishments often appear. Combine this with Wang’s masterful draping abilities, and you have clothes that fashion phase falls over itself for.

Visit yuhanwang.com

Labrum London

Labrum was founded by creative director Foday Dumbuya from his living room in 2015 and is to tell “the untold stories of West Africa to help build a bridge between Western and West African culture”. Dumbuya’s time spent in Sierra Leone, Cyprus and London, that intention is evident in Labrum’s clothes. Classic western separations are rendered in rich color palettes and vibrant patterns, with respect for the craftsmanship refined on both continents, emphasizing the quality of each piece. A sign that he is heading in the right direction? In 2020, Labrum was urged by the Ministry of Sports in Sierra Leone to make uniforms for both national sports and the official Olympic 2020 kit.

Visit labrumlondon.com

Read more: The upcoming London tailors to know now

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